ART HERITAGE LIVES ON IN MANDALAY

Patrick Cusick

Myanmar’s rich cultural heritage is intricately linked to Theravada Buddhism. During the glory days of Mandalay the influence of Buddhism on artistic expression and architectural splendor was phenomenal. Today the ruins of this once splendorous city can be viewed with some insight into why Myanmar was recognized as the “sparkling jewel” of greater Asia.
 

When it was the country’s cultural hub the Royal Palace of Mandalay was surrounded by a massive square brick wall that measured a mile and one eighth on each side. The wall stood 25 feet high with twelve gates each of which had a square wooden pavilion marked with a sign of the zodiac.
 

“Fortress Mandalay” was also circled by a wide moat that averaged 225 feet in width and 11feet in depth. While the wall was built primarily for protection it also provided for the demarcation of a sacred space for the royal palace that was situated at the center. Beyond the wall was a common area for workshops and markets.
 

All that remains of Mandalay’s royal palace today is the high walls. Long gone are the clusters of teak buildings and the multiple roofing held together by tall wooden columns. The palace was made of perishable material, most of which have disappeared. But their details have been known from contemporary paintings, descriptions in chronicles and through an assortment of traveler’s accounts.
 

Built in 1875 the Mandalay Palace is a fine example of a great and long building tradition. Even though all the palace buildings were destroyed during World War II they have been well documented by photographs and in architectural surveys. The most important building was the Great Hall of Audience - a large, central throne room with two open, lateral wings to accommodate large gatherings. The palace building was considered to be the center of the universe. It was marked by a tall tower within the complex that soared seven tiers to 256 feet. 
 

A golden period for Myanmar - from 1860-1885- saw the arts blossom which sparked a renaissance of national identity. At the time Myanmar was locked into two Burmese-Anglo wars fought in 1826 and 1852. The entire lower half of Myanmar had been taken by the British forces and the Upper Burma - which was severed from the coast - was left isolated from the world. At King Mindon’s insistence Mandalay Hill became the centre of Burmese culture. The King’s determination to resist the British invasion was based on a Buddhist prediction that the country would remain independent. Consequently, a new royal city was built to a “perfect geometrical” form of a Buddhist Mandala, and it was this mandala from which the city was named Mandalay.
 

As the British consolidated their occupation in the south, the King constructed three buildings that became icons for Burmese endeavor. The Kyauktawgyi Temple at the foot of Mandalay Hill, the Kuthawdawgyi Stupa and the Atumashi monastery were all recognized for their exquisite art and extraordinary architecture. Importantly, the legacy of the Royal Guilds - who created such exceptional artworks in ancient Mandalay – lives on today through traditional schools for artists and sculptures who continue to produce outstanding products in traditional Mandalay style.
 

Before building his palace the king in 1853 began construction of the Kyawktawgyi Temple at the foot of the southern stairway to Mandalay Hill. Although the temple was modeled on the Ananda Temple at Pagan, when completed it contained only a single enormous seated image of the Buddha. This, however, had been carved from a gigantic block of white marble. It is estimated that it took 10,000 men to transport the stone from the Irrawaddy to the temple site. This is the largest stone image of the Buddha in Myanmar.
 

Nearby the Shweyattaw temple was constructed half way up the southern approach to Mandalay Hill to house an enormous standing image of Gautama the Buddha. The temple dramatically points to the royal palace on the plain below. In all the Mandalay temples gold leaf remains the main ornamental feature. The reason for this is that gold represents the radiance of spiritual energy and universal power. Gold leaf continues to be a spiritual inspiration and gold leaf combined with inlaid colored glass and silver mirroring can be seen in generous proportions on the interiors of most temples.