Burmese Lacquerware

David McGarry

Lacquerware is perhaps the most popular souvenir for visitors to Myanmar. Peruse any market stall selling the stuff, and it’s easy to see why: quality, variety and value-for-money. In other words, the perfect keepsake.

Local prices are exceedingly low when one considers the amount of work that goes into making a piece of lacquerware. The first step is for the craftsman to make a frame. Superior quality goods have a frame made of bamboo, sometimes with horse or donkey hairs woven around the frame. Cheaper items are made almost entirely from bamboo.

The lacquer is sap from the kusum tree (Melanorrhea usitata) which is native to the country’s North-east. The sap is mixed with rice husk ash. As the sap is naturally black, pigments such as indigo and ochre are added for coloured designs. The lacquer is coated over the frame and allowed to dry. Several days later, it is lightly sanded and a second coat is added. Top quality items might have seven coats.

Next, the lacquer is engraved and painted. Finally, it is polished to remove all traces of paint  except where the item is engraved. The whole process can take up to six months.

The first lacquerware producers in Myanmar created their wares in the Chinese style, perhaps 1,000 years ago. The most famous style, the incised ‘yun’ lacquer originated in Thailand. In the mid-16^th century, King Bayinnaung went to war against Chiang Mai and captured a number of local artisans, including those skilled at making lacquerware. Yun is an old Bamar word for Chiang Mai.

Yun style is predominant in Pagan, Myanmar’s most famous cultural site. In the Yun, or Pagan, process the base material is sealed with several layers of lacquer.  In the finest work many extra layers of lacquer are used to make a more smooth and durable finish.  A fine metal point is then used to etch grooves that are filled with lacquer colored by natural pigments.  For lower quality items, the etched grooves are broad while on fine pieces the grooves are tiny, requiring great time and care.  After application of each color the object is left to dry, then polished.  Then grooves are etched for a second color, then dried and polished.

As lacquerware is a very traditional craft, most objects reflect the rich, decorative style of local design: flowers, vines and animals fill every space.   Images are drawn from the same spiritual motifs as other Burmese arts - astrological symbols, protective animals (real and mythical), Jataka and Ramayana stories, and Burmese historical designs. People are shown wearing classical Burmese textiles such as famous wave-patterned “acheik” sarongs.  Buildings show the ornate architectural style of the Mandalay period.  People and animals are often shown in dancing poses inspired by the movements from the puppet theatre.  In keeping with the conventions of manuscript and temple art, men and women are usually pictured in ¾ profile.  

Bichromatic lacquerware consists of a pattern in gold or silver on a jet black background. The very best designs use gold leaf.

Connoisseurs of lacquerware will tell you there are five basic factors determining the overall quality of any particular item:

• Materials (traditional technique and materials or modern)

• Frame (elegance and originality)

• Design (detail, elegance, and originality)

• Finish (smooth durable finish is best)

• Flexibility (a bowl can have its rim squeezed together until the sides meet)

Superior lacquerware is more durable. Selection and seasoning of materials is an important aspect of lacquerware quality. Imperfectly made items may crack as they age, especially when brought to a cold climate.

Bare in mind that antique lacquerware is exceedingly rare. At least, genuine items are. Wealthy Burmese tended to throw away lacquerware once it started showing signs of wear and tear. Consequently, almost none of it survived. There’s no shortage of reproduction antiques. Quite often, manufacturers prefer to use inferior materials as these chip and “age” much faster.

The best places to buy Myanmar lacquerware are the markets of Yangon, Mandalay and Pagan. Bowls, trays, jewellery boxes and plates are the most popular creations. Some artisans also turn out folding tables, screens and chairs. As these are fairly lightweight, it is fairly straightforward to ship your purchases home and save the effort of carting them around  for the rest of your trip.