Innwa (Ava)
Rick Schellen

If you go down-river from Mandalay approximately 20 km southwest, you will find yourself near the ancient city of Ava which is now known as Innwa. Although Innwa is on the same side of the Ayeyarwady River as Mandalay and may be reached by following the river around, it is much easier and quicker to take a river taxi across the Myitnge River and then hire a horse and cart (at a cost of about 1500 kyat) over to the town. The town is situated just south of the confluence of the Ayeyarwady and Myitnge (Dothtavati) rivers. An artificial channel known as Myittha Chaung was dug from the Myitnge on the south to the Ayeyarwady River on the west. This effectively turned Innwa into an island.

Innwa was founded in 1364 by King Thadominbya. At that time it was known as Ava. The location of the city was of vital importance because it lies at the gateway to the vast rice fields of Kyaukse. The outline of the outer walls did not adhere to the usual convention of being rectilinear. Instead, their somewhat zigzagged contour is thought to represent the shape of a seated lion. The inner citadel, which has since been reconstructed on at least three occasions, was carefully laid out and constructed following traditional esoteric principles of cosmology.

Ava has been the capital of Upper Myanmar on two occasions, flourishing as a major cultural and commercial centre for over three centuries. It was the capital of the entire Burmese kingdom from 1636 when the whole of Burma was controlled from within its walls. The whole of Myanmar was often known by the outside world as Ava, such was the importance of this city. Officially it was referred to as Ratanapura meaning “The City of Gems”.

Burmese arts, crafts and architecture within the city often took their own course in some respects during the Ava period. This was due in part to fewer contacts with India than there were in the Bagan Era. For example, a more uniquely “Burmese style” of sculpture started to evolve. Ava sculptures had their own “rounded” style that did not adhere to the standards of the Bagan era. Typically, Ava images were made entirely of marble, which was easily available for quarrying in the not-too-distant Sagyin Hills. Ava painting styles also evolved. More pigments were introduced, resulting in more vivid paintings than were seen during the Bagan period. Likewise, stupas and pagodas were built more out of wood than the traditional brick and stucco.

In 1838, the city was almost totally destroyed by a huge earthquake that shook much of Central Myanmar. The city was abandoned in 1841 when the capital was shifted a short distance further north to Amarapura by King Shwebo Min. The days of glory of Ava had come to an end.

Innwa nowadays is a quiet little town that keeps to itself and goes about its mundane and simple business, a far cry from its former glory and the enormous power that was once wielded from within its walls. Only a few of the buildings that made it famous are still standing as most were either destroyed by earthquake or dismantled for use in the new capital. Steeped in history and abounding with fascinating legends and stories, Innwa is still very much a popular tourist destination and offers the visitor a lot of cultural and historical sites to see.

Innwa (Ava) Bridge

A few kilometres south of Amarapura, the 16 span Innwa Bridge is over one kilometre long and reaches between Amarapura and Sagaing. It was the longest bridge in Myanmar until the Thanlyin Bridge was opened in 1993. Although it is known as Innwa (or Ava) Bridge, it doesn’t actually pass through Innwa (Ava) at all. Built in 1934 using British engineering techniques, it was the only bridge to span the Ayeyarwady River until 1998 and was a major route to neighbouring India. On the Mandalay and Innwa side of the bridge, one can still see the Thabyedan Fort, which was built by the Burmese as a last defence against the British during the third Anglo-Burmese war in the 19^th century.

Innwa Bridge played a very strategic role during the Second World War and for that reason was partially destroyed by the British in 1942 and put out of action, in an attempt to halt the advance of the Japanese across the river. The bridge wasn’t made operational again until 1954 when it was finally repaired. It also carries a railway line across the river. A toll is now charged for cars to go across.

Nanmyin Watch Tower

The Nanmyin Watch Tower, sometimes referred to as “The Leaning Tower of Innwa” on account of its precarious lean, is a 27 metre (90 feet) masonry tower that was once part of the original royal palace built by King Bagyidaw. It has since been renovated.

Maha Aungmye Bonzan Monastery

One edifice of interest is the Maha Aungmye Bonzan Monastery (or the Meh Nu Ok Kyaung Monastery as it is sometimes called), built in 1818. It was built by Meh Nu, one of Bagyidaw’s queens for her royal abbot, Nyaunggan Sayadaw. This monastery features massive staircases at each of its entrances that were typical of monasteries of this era. Another feature that was not standard for that époque and area was that fact that it was built out of brick and plaster rather than wood. The monastery was damaged by the 1838 earthquakes. It was later restored in 1873.

Bagaya Kyaung Monastery

The wooden monastery of Bagaya Kyaung was built at a later period than the masonry Maha Aungmye Bonzan but it is no less impressive. Built in 1834 by King Bagyidaw, it is made entirely of teak and has eight huge brick staircases. The monastery is supported by 274 huge teak pillars, some of which measure up to 18 metres in height and nearly 3 metres in circumference. The pagoda is famous for its exquisite carvings.

Le Thagyi Pagoda

The 14^th century Le Thagyi Pagoda in Innwa has an interesting legend attached to its origin. The story goes that the queen at that time had a dream that featured many animals, something that is often seen as a very bad omen in Burmese culture. In order to protect herself she sought the advice of a guru. She was instructed to build a special pagoda that was surrounded with figures of ogais (“little ghosts”). Thus the special square-shaped Le Thagyi Pagoda was constructed on her orders, with the ogais surrounding all the terraces of the pagoda. Each carved face on the ogais is different.

Other Things to See in Innwa

Not far from the Le Thagyi Pagoda, one can visit the 700 year-old Lawka Htut Phaung and Su Taung Pyi pagodas. Here visitors have the chance to see the stages involved in making the famous bowls that monks use to beg for alms.

There are many other pagodas and monasteries to see in Innwa. Also worth seeing is the Htilamgshin Pagoda which was built during the Bagan era, many centuries earlier. There is an inscription in a nearby shed that outlines the construction of the palace during the first Innwa Dynasty. The remains of the massive four-storey Layhtatatgyi Pagoda may also still be viewed in the southern section to the city.

Visitors may hire a horse and cart and pass through the walls of the ancient city. There are many ruins of old farms, villages and ancient pagodas to be seen within the ancient city walls. In the northern section, the walls are still in quite good condition. You may still visit the northern gate facing the Ayeyarwady that was known as Gaung Say Daga (“The Hair-Washing Gate”). This is the area where members of the royal family had their hair ceremonially washed.