ON THE ROAD TO MANDALAY

Patrick Cusick

The best way to find the soul of Myanmar is to take a journey of discovery along the Irrawaddy River. This mighty river splits Myanmar in two – a spectacular 2170-kilometer waterway that begins at the northern trading outpost of Mytkiran and flows southward until it joins the waters of the Andaman Sea.

This great river journey passes through a land of stunning contrasts – from wide expanses of arid plans to rugged mountain ranges interlocked with some sharp breathtaking gorges. For most of the passage the waters are placid but there are times, during the monsoon floods, when the waterway becomes a raging torrent. Yet the river is in the most part naturally predictable.

Former steamship navigators of 50 years ago claim that the river runs true and that there is little danger for ships getting into trouble or running aground. Before the Second World War the river was dotted with a fleet of hundreds of steam ships that we operated by the Glasgow-based Irrawaddy Flotilla Company. Records show that the steamers ferried more than nine million people annually. But the lucrative river business came to an abrupt halt when the British army scuttled all the steamers when they retreated from the Japanese in 1942.

However, long before the British arrived magnificent barges of the Myanmar royalty plied the Irrawaddy. The barges all made of teak and joined by ebony wooden nails were powered by 40 oarsmen who rowed non-stop for four hours at a time covering hundreds of miles in a day’ travel.

From a seemingly endless waterway the spirit of Myanmar took its birth. The river, in fact, provides for lush rice paddies as well as for an abundance of fresh fish. More importantly, however, is that the country’s communities have a common heritage in the hundreds of towns and cities that have sprung up as settlements along the river’s banks. Furthermore, without the Irrawaddy there would not have been a birthplace for some of Asia’s greatest empirical kingdoms – Bagan, Sri Kserra, Amarapura, Sagain, Ava and the ancient royal city Mandalay.

While these great cultural displays have come and gone their legacy live on in the diversity of the people - and the river folk - who owe their livelihood to the great Irrawaddy River. Along the river the past merges into present day. And along the banks many country’s customs live on – men still wear the sarong-like longyi and women coat their faces with a protective past called thanaka. There are few entertainment venues, discos and clubs but the traditional teashops remains open all-day and close late at night. There are always throngs of builders at work. However, they aren’t occupied in building office towers. Instead they spend most of their time renovated and constructing pagodas in much the same way as their forefathers did before them.

Life on the land is a wealth of historical interest with some modern-day appeal. But it’s the river that draws an enduring appeal for Myanmar. And a riverboat journey is – for most new visitors – one of the great opportunities to view life as it is. And this should not be missed.

There are many options for a river cruise in Myanmar. Small rice barges jog along the waterway in the days of endless tranquility. There are lots of diesel-powered local ferries and loads of small bamboo rafts for short rides. Some the ferryboats have overnight accommodation but most take passengers and cargo from town to town. But in terms of providing comfortable days of cruising there is only one ship on the river that takes the exclusive high ground for old style comfort and charm and that is the now famous Road to Mandalay luxury cruise ship, operated by Eastern and Oriental Express Company, better known as E & O. This tour provider out of Singapore controls one of the region’s most prestigious hotels as well as operating the luxury carriages on the Singapore to Bangkok railway line.

The Road to Mandalay ship specializes on taking passengers on Myanmar river view spectaculars which range from three day cruises to two week live-aboard journeys of discovery taking in some of the most scenic of river waterways. Not only are passengers given every consideration for luxurious river travel they are given a first class lessons in Myanmar waterside geography as well has being left with a lifetime appreciation of the country’s outstanding natural appeal.

The luxury river ship takes on board passengers at Shew Kyt Yet , at a pier near to Mandalay. Although only a few kilometers away from the city’s center the setting is more a rural scene with thatched roofed houses and dusty roadways. But as in most cities and towns there are also long lines of monks taking early morning alms along with an assortment of food stalls and teashops. The gangway to the ship gives an insight into the splendor that waits onboard. A stepping plank and steps shinning white with some royal red strips runs for 100 meters giving passengers a VIP promenade. The gangway dwarfs dozens of rustic wooden boats that sway gently in the surrounding water.

The Road to Mandalay’s magnificently maintained exteriors and interiors was once a polished floating luxury hotel in Germany. It first came to Myanmar in 1995 after being towed from Europe to Yangon where it underwent $6 million refurbishment.  Today The Road to Mandalay is a class ship that has few peers. The ship as a long list of ultra-modern conveniences including a hi-tech satellite communications, a pinpoint navigation system and all the in-house entertainments such as video games and card tables. Yet the ship maintains its regal splendor of the days of gentry. Every effort has been taken to preserve the ship’s historic character.

What more could be added to the burnished writing desks in he state cabins, the red carpet that covers the ship’s gangway, the rattan couches perched on the top decks and, of course, the Kipling verses that hang like sacred verse from the walls. One board is to sense the atmosphere of from grand era where opulence was the high-end duality of east/west interconnections.

The ship sets off on its two-day journey to the ancient city of Bagan. Guests have an afternoon to explore Mandalay, the former capital that is still regarded as the country’s cultural center. Mandalay hasn’t been inundated with tourism development and the city retains much of its old charm. There is however an abundance of local guides and plenty of luxury coaches available for small groups of travelers. Passengers on board The Road to Mandalay have a choice of multiple excursions while on shore. The options are many – from historical and cultural sites to the new attractions of commercial endeavors. Life and the times are slowly changing in the Mandalay and it’s a bonanza for those who are keen to experience a city on the casp of change. There is a lot to know about Mandalay and fortunately the ship has several guides that are able to provide commentaries while passengers discover the land attractions. There are lots of insights into Burmese lifestyle that does need some explaining. Mandalay had the last Myanmar king and the city is steeped in grandeur.

The Road to Mandalay docks for a night in Shew Kyet Yet harbor before setting steaming onto Banga at sunrise. While the passengers are confined on board the ship is far from being a bore. The open air top deck has a swimming pool with views of the river scenery, sunrises and sunsets. The kitchen is up to five star hotel standards services international and local Asian dishes.  All the cabins are classy and comfortable. There are also routine presentations designed to educate and entertain guests. There are talks on the river’s rich history as well as sessions for Burmese acrobatic and puppets.

A night on board is a memorable pleasure. The graceful, comfortable cabins are all well-appointed and graced with thoughtful touches like fruit baskets, reading materials, elegant cotton robes and some grand stationary. Each cabin has an ensuite bathroom and shower. The boat drops anchor at sunset. Passengers can be assured a peaceful sleep with no disturbance from engines or from a rolling ship moving at speed.

Early risers get a chance to see the processions of monks from the village, but the rest of the day is occupied by lying back and taking in the ever-changing river landscape. The scenery between Mandaly and Bagan consists of lush plans and marshes with a never ending dotting of white pagodas. Along the way there are clusters of living huts that line the riverbank. There are also lines of small fishing vessels with a succession of fishing nets that are caste out and pulled throughout the early morning and before sunset.

The arrival to Bagan is the highlight of the ship’s journey. The famous temple site reveals itself with the dawn, when it casts off the mist of the topical night and the sun first touches the golden spires of hundreds of temples. It’s an incredible sight and nothing can prepare the traveler for the sight of this 40 kms plain of pagoda monuments and assortment of cultural relics. Some are still in ruins while others have been restored to their former glory. The quest for the spirit of man began in Bagan a thousand years ago. It took two hundred years of construction for the materialization. But for reasons still unknown in the 13^th century fell rapidly into decline and finally abandoned.

Today onboard The Road to Mandalay Bagan has resurfaced as one of the world’s great cultural destination. It is truly one of the great river journeys of discovery, and it’s a journey that cuts through to the soul of a country that is undergoing a rebirthing.