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Pearls
of the Andaman
David McGarry
Myanmar is famous
throughout the world for the quality and quantity of its gems. “Pigeon
Blood” rubies and flawless sapphires are synonymous with Myanmar.
Recently, another precious commodity has been making waves in the local
gem and jewellery industry. Pearls.
The British were
the first to set up commercial pearl farms in Myanmar,
and the oldest farm was established in 1891 in the Myeik Archipelago
which is off the country’s southern coast. There are four types of pearl
– fresh water, black, Akoya and South Sea. Black pearls come mainly from
Tahiti and Akoya from Japan. South Sea pearls are considered the most
valuable, and are found in Myanmar, Indonesia, Australia and the
Philippines. The Myanmar variety is considered the most precious of all
as about 40% of them are golden.
Each pearl
harvested is the end result of several years of farming. Oysters
fertilise only between the months of January and May. Male and female
oysters are placed in water tanks at a ratio of six males to 20 females.
Then, the temperature is raised. This causes oysters to release sperm
and ova into the water. These seek each other out and become larvae,
which attach themselves to knotted ‘collector ropes’.
After 45 days, the ropes are placed in panels which are deposited in
ocean waters within the farm area. Farms are off limits to fishermen and
unauthorised boats and ships. Security is enforced by Myanmar Navy
patrol boats.
Two years later,
the oysters are about 10 cm long and ready to be seeded. This consists
of prying open the shells and inserting a nucleus or foreign body into
it. The oyster tries to deal with the foreign body by depositing layer
upon layer of calcium called nacre on it. The accumulated nacre
constitutes the pearl.
Seeding an oyster
is a delicate process; the shell must be pried open to implant a nucleus
and mantle tissue in the oyster’s gonads. Until recently, only Japanese
specialist technicians were able to perform this work at high speed and
with good nucleus retention rates. Now this skill is being acquired by
Myanmar technicians.
Breeding and
seeding techniques have been improved to increase the percentage of
golden pearls produced, as they have greater market appeal and value
compared to white and yellow pearls.
By the end of the
fourth year, the oysters are ready to be harvested. Shells are reopened
and pearls removed, after which another nucleus can immediately be
inserted. This can be repeated two or three times during the oyster’s
lifetime, after which it has grown too old and is set free in the ocean
to begin life anew as a wild oyster.
If you are
considering buying pearls, remember the buyer’s guidelines for judging
the value. Just as gem buyers rate a stone by the cut, clarity, colour
and carat, pearl buyers are looking for certain qualities. Lustre, nacre
thickness, surface quality, colour, size and shape are all important
factors in determining the quality of a pearl. Round and drop shapes are
more popular than semi-round, button, circle and mixed shapes.
Most pearls are
sold by the momme (the weight system which originated in Japan; one
momme equals 3.75 grammes or 18.7 carats). Prices can range from $20 to
more than $1000 a momme. At the Myanmar Gems Emporium in March 2004, the
average price of pearls was $130 per momme.
Pearls and pearl
jewellery can be found in Yangon
and other major tourist destinations throughout Myanmar. The
Bogyoke Aung San market in Yangon has a number of stores which should be
of interest to tourists. Traders and jewellers would be better off
contacting the state-owned Myanmar Pearl Enterprise, which is part of
the Ministry of Mines.
Once you have
acquired some lovely, golden Myanmar pearls, you need to take care of
your acquisition. Pearls are not one of the most durable gems. They are
harder than fingernails but softer than glass.
Since pearls are
sensitive to chemicals and chemical products, it is advisable to put on
pearl jewellery only after applying make up, hairsprays and perfumes.
Pearls should never be cleaned with detergents as they can damage their
brightness. Perspiration or dust should be removed with a soft cloth
moistened with water. Acid and heat are also harmful for pearls, so they
should be removed while showering and cooking.
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