The Shan State: hidden wonders, exotic people and rich history.

By, Lachlan Pollard. © June 20, 2004

Yangon, Mandalay and the western area of the Shan state are the most common tourist destinations inside Myanmar. But besides the popular spots of Inle Lake and the Pindaya caves, the Shan state has much more to offer the visitor and time spent exploring the area will reward the traveller with many memorable experiences.

The Shan state is the biggest state in Myanmar: stretching east from Mandalay and bordered by (south to north) Thailand, Laos and China; it accounts for nearly a quarter of the total area. Its terrain, along with the Inle Lake (altitude 900m), includes mountainous ranges, deep valleys and thick forests. The Thanlwin (Salween) River divides the state into two halves, separating the fashionable tourist areas on the Shan Plateau from the infamous Golden Triangle.

The area has an eclectic mix of ethnic groups: the Shan people (most noted in western documentaries for their animistic worship of the cow), account for the majority of the population while other tribes such as the Palaung, Kachin, Kaw (Akha), Lahu (Muscoe), Kokang, Wa (formerly head hunters), Padaung and Taungthu also inhabit the state.

Visiting the deeper parts of the Shan state require special permits, which tourist agencies have the best chance of obtaining. The upside of this is that tourist numbers are regulated and you get an experience that ddiffers from the typical ‘assembly line’: walking from one attraction to another and being greeted by a ‘robot.’

The sites on the western side of the Thanlwin River are easily accessible from Mandalay by train, jeep or plane. Northeast of Mandalay are the towns of Hspiaw and Lashio on the Shan plateau and in the southeast are the major tourist attractions (Inle Lake and the Pindaya caves), and the road leading into the Golden Triangle region.

Directly east of Mandalay, reached by train or for the intrepid, a hair-raising two-hour jeep ride, is the old imperial English city of Maymo. Named after a Colonel May of the fifth Bengal Infantry division, who was stationed there in 1886, the city still maintains some of its English heritage: open houses stand on the hills to take advantage of the cooler breezes and horse drawn carriages still clatter along the roads within the village. A fascinating market attracts colourful, local villagers and a gaudy Chinese temple is a testament to the high population of Chinese. However, this ethnic melting pot produces a fragrance and flavour that will leave the tourist amazed; perhaps it is the 300 acre botanical garden of beautiful Maymo chrysants blossoming on the street – regardless Maymo is not to be missed!

Following the train tracks northeast are the towns of Hsipaw and Lashio. Hsipaw is a quiet town, the primary business centre for small farms and villages that work the fertile land of its surrounds. The town is laid back and has become popular with tourists looking to soak up the serenity. In contrast to the peacefulness of Hsipaw, Lashio has an undercurrent of danger lurking around ‘that corner’ and in ‘that building.’ Recently opened to tourists the town is similar to a burough in parts of Los Angeles: you can walk south and west, but don’t go north or east. In spite of this, the town is not intimidating and among other attractions are the famous Burma Road, the busy Quan Yin San temple, and of course - the market!

The train from Mandalay also runs southeast to Taunggyi, the capital of the Shan state. This city acts as a gateway to the Inle Lake and Pindaya regions and as a trading centre for the many surrounding tribes. The best time to visit is in winter when colourful hot air balloons fill the sky during the day and fireworks often shoot into the darkness at night. The city also has an ethnocentric museum that displays life size models of present and past inhabitants of the area in their traditional dress.

No visit to the Shan state can be complete without seeing the remarkable Inle Lake and Pindaya Caves. The huge lake supports many different types of flora, fauna and the lake dwelling tribe: the Intha. The best way to experience all of this is by taking a half or full day boat tour. The tour also provides an opportunity for you to disembark on the floating islands of the Intha - and unlike the floating islands on Lake Titicaca, South America, they do not have a satellite phone booth! The Pindaya Caves, containing countless buddha statues, glistening in the candlelight are also popular for tourists and can be visited on the journey to Inle Lake from Taunggyi.

Deep inside the Shan State and in the middle of the Golden Triangle is Kyaingtong, possibly the most beautiful place in Myanmar. The city, albeit slightly difficult to get to, has a perfect mix of cultures, colonial history, magnificent scenic vistas and fantastic tales (and yes – a market!) 

The road from Taunggyi extends east, threw Loilem, Kunhing, then across the Thanlwin River to Mong Ping and Kyaingtong, before finishing at the Myanmar /Thailand border towns of Tachilek and Mae Sai. To travel the road from either Taunggyi or Mae Sai requires a permit - which again, travel agencies usually have the best chance of obtaining. For the backpacker, flights into Kyaingtong can be taken from Yangon or Heho: a neighbouring town of Taunggyi.

Nestled around a small lake, among dense forests and scenic mountains, Kyaingtong is surrounded by small Wa, Shan, Akha and Lahu villages and has much to offer the traveller (including the opportunity to say that he/she has been to the centre of the Golden Triangle): there are trekking explorations to see the hill tribes; ancient Buddhist Wats and Monasteries to be explored; a vibrant market that even has water buffalo for sale; or for the weary, just simply watching the town wind down at sunset from beside the lake.

Travelling into the Shan state is for the more adventurous; it has only opened to tourists in recent years and some routes and cities can be closed to tourists. There are continuous disputes between state bodies and drug lords and the culture shock will be extreme for some. But, like all travelling the journey (both physically and mentally) is what you make of it, or as the ancient Burmese proverb states – a bullock is handsome if a Shan likes it; a bed is a palace if you fancy it.