MYANMAR’S BEST BEACH SECRET

Patrick Cusick

One of Myanmar’s best kept secrets is the unspoiled beaches of the Bay of Bengal. Regarded as one of Asia’s finest beach strips Ngapali first became famous when Rudyan Kipling of Mandalay fame had a seaside cottage in Ngapali where he wrote the first drafts of his famous Jungle Book.

Situated in the south end of Rakhine State, a narrow coastal strip interspersed with rivers, waterfalls, valleys and blue mountain ranges, Ngapali is populated mostly by Muslims Rakhines and various hill tribes. Beyond the beach, the hilly coastline is rocky and fringed with islands that are often submerged, much like those of Thailand’s Phangna Bay.

Ngapali has a balmy climate year round – temperatures climb to over of 29 degrees Celsius during the hottest month and about 21 in the cold winter season – but heavy rains during the summer monsoons force many resorts to close their doors from mid June to August.

Two pioneering resorts are the German run Bayview and the Italian managed Sandoway . The French are coming too and are busy constructing luxury retreats. Myanmar based Woodlands; a forest concern that has already established eco-friendly lodges in Mt Oppa near Banga is also launching a luxury beach property.

A few days spent strolling in the beach silvery sands make a fitting end to a rigorous tour of the upcountry Myanmar. Apart from swimming in the sea or hotel pools, visitors can indulge in snorkeling, scuba diving, windsurfing, and fishing in the Bay of Bengal’s crystal-clear waters. In the absence of the three N’s - neons, noise and night life – the faint rustle of palm trees and breaking waves are the only sounds here in Ngapali after sunset.

The area has a secluded intimate feel, reinforced by its fine cuisine and comfortable beach chalets. Hiring a cycle and d exploring the beach road, one can still see Kilplings cottage overlooking the seas, hardly fishermen hauling in their catches and cane-hatted women drying fish on the sun, much as they have done for centuries.

Those who tire of the beach can dine out at the large number of quality low-priced restaurants on the main beach road where the speciality is, as would be expected, seafood dishes. One thing that you won't find on the menu, however, is turtle. A save the turtle program is being maintained on the beach. Thanks to the initiative visitors can now watch baby turtles crawl along Ngpali’s beaches by moonlight.

Another spectacle, especially during the winter months, is the massive waves of plankton that drift by the seashore, some up to 15 kms long. These are often followed on the horizon by enormous whale sharks, a harmless species that feeds on the plankton. Surprisingly for some Myanmar is one of the first maritime nations to designate whale sharks a protected species.

There is not a lot to buy in Ngapali. No cottage industries have yet been set up to process seashells trinkets. However a trip to nearby Thandwe market can result in some unusual finds. One thing not to be missed, however, is a visit to the local weavers who create the areas famous Rakhine-styke lungris (sarongs) on hand looms. These distinct garments are popular with both men and women all over Myanmar.

Ngapali also proves easy access to the ancient ruins of Mrauk-U – one of the richest archaeological sites in Southeast Asia. Situated some 50 kms upstream form Sittwe, the Rakhine capital, Mrauk-U was founded in 1430 and rules the waves from the Bay of Bengal to the Andaman Sea for 350 years.

At the time it was one of the most legendary cities of the East, feared even by the Portuguese. Today, although its glory days are long gone, it still boasts some imposing temples and pagodas. Mrauk U is accessible by boat form Sittwe, a short flight up the coast form Thandwe, the airport serving Ngapali.

Nobody’s quite sure how Ngapoli name originated. In local parlance Nga means fish and some claim that poli is an old name for something cute.